Notre Dame

The roof of Notre Dame offers arguably the best view of the city. The most obvious destination for tourists is the Eiffel Tower, but, personally, the view from the top of the Tower pales in comparison to the view from the roof of the cathedral. What I love about Notre Dame is that its height allows you to be close to the rooftops of Paris. Also, the gargoyles make for great photographs. If you decide to climb to the top, get there in the morning as early as you can. There will always be a line, but it will be a lot shorter at opening. Also, it’s just a fantastic way to start a day in Paris. I would consider this a must.

On a side note, I would venture into the cathedral to see the South Rose Window. I believe it’s free of charge.

La Sainte-Chapelle

Entry costs money, but Sainte-Chapelle is absolutely worth seeing. I would consider the chapel having the most beautiful stained glass windows that I have seen. In anticipation of the German invasion of Paris, the windows were removed and, afterwards, every piece had to be individually put in place.  

Shakespeare and Company

Shakespeare and Company is a world famous bookstore located directly across the river from Notre Dame. The bookstore was owned by Sylvia Beach, an expatriate who helped many of the “Lost Generation” writers, like Hemingway and Fitzgerald, get their start. Joyce’s Ulysses was published out of the bookstore. Unfortunately, the bookstore is not in its original location, but nevertheless it’s worth seeing. The place, aside from its fame, is neat. Upstairs, there are reading rooms with beds where writers can find a place to sleep. If you buy a book here, they will stamp it with the bookstore name. When I was there, I bought The Picture of Dorian Gray as a keepsake.

Île Saint-Louis

One of my favorite places in Paris, the Île Saint-Louis is one of the two islands that the Seine forms (the other is Île de la Cité). In recent years, the island has become quite touristy, but I have always thought of it as a quaint neighborhood. You do not have to spend a lot of time here, but it’s worth walking around the streets a bit and maybe popping into some of the shops. I do suggest, however, making time for brunch or lunch at Au Lys d'Argent, a crêperie. My parents have been to this restaurant four times and I have been three times. You can expect the same friendly, accommodating owner and an exceptional meal every time. Also, Maison Berthillon, an ice cream shop, is very popular. I believe that they have locations around Paris, but the one in the Île Saint-Louis is the flagship.

Au Lys d'Argent
90 Rue Saint Louis en l'Île

Maison Berthillon
29-31 Ruse Saint Louis en L'Île

Jardin du Luxembourg

I think that the gardens are worth a passing through. There is a pond located behind the Luxembourg Palace and typically there are always mini sailboats in it that children remote control. It’s very picturesque.

Place des Vosges

Also worth a passing through, the Place des Vosges is essentially a small square surrounded by luxury apartments with a park in the middle. Dominique Strauss-Kahn, the former director of IMF who ran for presidential office, lives there. When we were in Paris, he was arrested in NY after that whole scandal with the maid. I like the Place des Vosges because it’s quintessential French architecture. At one of the corners of the square is a plaque pointing to where Victor Hugo lived.

Le Marais

Le Marais is a district in very close proximity to the Place des Vosges that houses the Jewish community. Look for the Rue des Rosiers. Make a point of going to L’As du Fallafel, a Mediterranean restaurant. It will be difficult to miss as there is always a crowd at the take away line. We found that it was quicker to eat inside. I recommend the chicken shawarma. You will love it because it is a lot of food for very little money. While in le Marais, you may stumble on the Hôtel de Sully, which has pretty gardens.

L'As du Fallafel
34 Rue des Rosiers

Boulevard Saint-Germain

If there is any street that embodies Paris, this is it. I highly recommend making a point to get to Saint-Germain, say, in the early evening for the sole purpose of taking a stroll down it. It is teeming with life with people pouring in and out of cafés constantly. My parents and I would take a walk down Saint-Germain almost every night, as it was on the way to our hotel. One night, we saw Jacques Chirac, former president of France, leave a café and get into a Citroen car.  

Jardin des Tuileries

Like the Luxembourg Gardens, worth a passing through. The Luxembourg Gardens are closer to what you would consider a park or gardens, but the Tuileries are neat in that, if you stand by the fountain, you can see the obelisk at the Place de la Concord and the Arc de Triomphe straight ahead and the Eiffel Tower off to the side. The Tuileries Palace, where the royal family was placed for a brief time after their removal from Versailles during the Revolution, no longer stands here.

Place de la Concorde

Mainly a very busy traffic roundabout, but the Place de la Concorde is an extremely important square in France’s history. It was the primary location of the guillotine during the Reign of Terror. Marie Antoinette and Robespierre, among others, were beheaded there. The obelisk in the center was a gift to France from Egypt.

Champs-Élysées and Arc de Triomphe

The Champs-Élysées may not be what you expect. It wasn’t for me, at least. I had an image of a grand avenue lined with designer clothing stores, but the high end stores are mainly located near the Ritz. The Champs-Élysées is very congested with tourists and traffic. There is even a McDonald’s, but a pretty nice one at that. Definitely walk the avenue to get to the Arc de Triomphe, which is located at its end. I love the Arc. To me, it’s more of a symbol of Paris than the Eiffel Tower. Look for the eternal flame that sits directly under the center of the arch and marks the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Also, if you look straight on through the arch, you can see the modern arch that was built to replicate the Arc. When I was little, I climbed to the top of the Arc. It was a great view, but not as good as the one from the roof of Notre Dame. Also, the spiral stairwell is extremely narrow and the climb can be pretty intense.

Les Invalides

Les Invalides is difficult to miss. Around the area of the Tuileries Gardens, Place de la Concorde, and the Champs-Élysées, you will always be able to spot it—it has a giant gold dome. Napoleon Bonaparte’s tomb sits directly underneath the dome. If nothing else, enter the dome to see the tomb. It’s spectacular. If you do have extra time, however, I would consider visiting the museum portion of Les Invalides, the Musée de l’Armée. The museum has been beautifully modernized and houses much of Napoleon’s and his soldier’s uniforms and weapons. Napoleon’s beloved horse Vizir is stuffed and on display there. Also, look for Napoleon’s death mask. I saw it when I was little, but the last time that I was in Paris, it was being restored. It should, however, be back on exhibit now.

Musée du Louvre

The Louvre is close to 650,000 square feet. In a day, you won’t even scratch the surface. My suggestion would be to hit the museum some time before dinner time. You should be able to purchase tickets ahead of time at any newspaper stand in the metro, which will allow you to enter without waiting in line. Once inside, the main attractions that you want to look for are, of course, the Mona Lisa, the Nike of Samothrace, better known as Winged Victory, Cupid Revived by Cupid’s Kiss, and Venus de Milo. Also, keep your eyes peeled for Michelangelo’s slave statues. I believe that there are four and in each one, he has left behind unsculptured stone, which is symbolic of slavery, but also allows you to see what goes into sculpturing. I think that you will be really moved by the slave sculptures if you have never seen any of Michelangelo’s sculptures before. There are other paintings that you may want to try and find, like Ghirlandaio’s Portrait of an old man and his grandson, Velasquez’s Infanta Maria Margareta, and Delacroix’s Liberty leading the people. Lastly, don’t leave without seeing the courtyard and Napoleon’s furnished apartments. If you can time it right, make it outside in time to see the sun set. The reflection on the glass pyramid makes for a spectacular sight.      

Opéra

I do not know if you want to devote time to visiting the area surrounding the opera house, but, if I remember correctly, it is in close proximity to Place de la Concorde, so it is doable. If you do find yourself near the Opera, try and find the Ritz. The hotel is in its own plaza, of sorts, and is directly next to some of the highest end fashion stores in the world. Take Chanel, for example. The Chanel boutique here is not like Chanel boutiques elsewhere. Entry is by appointment only. There is a great place that you can get lunch near the opera house called Bouillon Chartier. The menu has many inexpensive items costing around two euros a piece, so you can try a lot of different things.

Bouillon Chartier
7 Rue du Faubourg    

Musée d'Orsay

The Orsay is my favorite museum in Paris. It’s much more manageable than the Louvre and, although the Louvre obviously has a remarkable collection, you will find yourself recognizing nearly every painting that you see at the Orsay, which is not the case at the Louvre. Situated in what was once a train station, the Orsay has an unreal collection of impressionist and post-impressionist art, including the likes of Monet, Manet, Degas, Renoir, Cézanne, and Van Gogh. I hope that this is not the case for you, but when I last went, all of the Van Gogh’s were travelling. Also, something stuck in my mind that the Orsay housed Monet’s water lily paintings, but it turns out that those are primarily at the Musée de l’Orangerie, which is located in the Place de la Concorde. Despite being disappointed by this, Manet’s artwork, which I had never before seen, was on exhibit at the time I visited the museum. Before you leave the Orsay, I would highly recommend visiting the museum’s restaurant, if even only for a coffee and pastry. The restaurant is different than Café Campana, which I believe is located on the ground floor. You will be able to tell the difference between the two. The restaurant is an ornate, high ceiling room and includes table service.

Montmartre

Montmartre is a destination in itself, so you will want to decide whether or not it is worth your while. If you had more time in Paris, I would absolutely recommend that you go to Montmartre, but, as it is essentially not near anything else, I am not sure that you will want to spend the time. Artists like Modigliani, Picasso, Dali, and Lautrec had studios in the community of Montmartre. The main site to see is the Place du Tertre, the square where many of these artists lived, including Modigliani. I was upset to see that the square has now become overrun with tourists. It used to be a quiet area where artist would congregate. Now, they paint tourists for money. The Moulin Rouge is in Montmartre, but I would steer clear of that area as it is pretty seedy. Lots of sex shops and the like, but maybe you’re into that kind of thing. If you do make it up to Montmartre, definitely visit Sacré Coeur. I wouldn’t waste time going inside as it is a fairly modern basilica, but the view of Paris is fantastic from the hill on which Sacré Coeur sits.

Montparnasse

Montparnasse is the same deal as Montmartre: it is a destination in itself. If you have to choose between the two for lack of time, I would go the Montmartre route, but it does require a larger portion of the day than Montparnasse. I got a kick out of Montparnasse because of having read The Sun Also Rises, which features the cafés that have made the area famous, like the Select, the Rotonde, and the Dôme. Hemingway, Joyce, and many of the Montmartre painters spent a great deal of time in Montparnasse, but it is no longer the case with current writers. There is, however, a very beautiful park nearby that is worth seeing. I cannot recall the name, but it is not difficult to find.

Cimetière du Père Lachaise

A visit to Père Lachaise is a full day affair. Without a guide, it may take you roughly an hour to find a single grave. But, to me, it is entirely worth it. To name a few, Modigliani, Chopin, Jimi Hendrix, Sarah Bernhardt, Édith Piaf, Molière, Richard Wright (bring back any ninth grade English class memories?), and Oscar Wilde are buried here. The history of the place is remarkable. Each grave has its own story. Oscar Wilde’s grave is by far the most notable monument in the cemetery. For years, it was tradition to put on lipstick and kiss his grave, which I got to do. People even wrote quotes from his poems and Dorian Gray in lipstick. But, as of last year, the monument was encased in glass to prevent people from vandalizing it. The continual cleaning was destroying the stone.

Château de Versailles

Even if you are in Paris for a day, Versailles is a must. There is no palace in Europe that compares to it. You can move through the interior fairly quickly, as tourists are only allowed to see a tiny fraction of the palace. The grounds, on the other hand, are another story. Since you are spending the day there, I would recommend walking at least as far as the Grand Trianon and the Petit Trianon. The Grand Trianon is virtually empty, but the Petit Trianon is well worth a look inside. The building was a gift to Marie Antoinette from her husband. She used it to escape from the strict etiquette of the court. The furnishings are stunning, especially in the Queen’s bedroom. The pattern on the bed covering was specially designed for Marie, incorporating her favorite flower. It’s stunning. If you are willing to venture further, there is the Hameau de la reine, the Queen’s hamlet. Essentially, the hamlet is an English-styled building scheme, which includes a farmhouse, dairy, dovecote, barn, and mill. It was Marie’s rustic retreat where she played peasant. When I was there, there were sheep, cows, and other animals grazing. It’s very authentic. While you walk from the Petit Trianon to the Hameau, look out for the Temple of Love, the Belvedere, and the Grotto.

Restaurants

Le Petit Prince

If you are planning on splurging on one meal, make it this one. You are guaranteed a top flight French dinner. And don't skip the dessert. The photos above are at Le Petit Prince.

Restaurant Crèmerie Polidor

Polidor was featured several times in Midnight In Paris and Rachael Ray's television show. They tend to seat tourists in the back room, but it makes no difference. Order the boeuf bourguignon, which is what they are known for. You will not be disappointed.

Lys d'Argent

Lys d'Argent is best for brunch. Go with the prefix to save money.

L'As du Fallafel

Dining may be quicker than waiting in the take away line, if you are short on time. They move you in and out very quickly. A lot of food for very little money. I recommend the chicken shawarma.

Bouillon Chartier

Chartier is gorgeous inside. In past times, regular diners had their own locked boxes for their napkins. The menu is broken into many inexpensive items, so try a bit of everything.

B.I.A.

B.I.A., standing for Breakfast In America, was begun by an American movie director who missed an American breakfast while in Paris. The servers are typically American students studying at the Sorbonne. Since B.I.A. was located on the same street as our hotel, my parents and I ate here many mornings until we found a cafe with a French-styled breakfast. B.I.A. is great if you want to fill up on pancakes and the like and it is cheap. Unlike other places in Paris, you can get a full-sized coffee.

Boulangerie Eric Kayser

We went here a dozen times. If you can't find Eric Kayser, make it a point to find another really good bakery. It is an essential Parisian experience. The French have some of the best in the world.